Backpacking Baffin Island Part 2: The Day We Crossed the Arctic Circle

"Crossing the Arctic Circle: Into the True Arctic"

Trevor, trying to take it all in.

Standing on the shores of the Pangnirtung Fjord, I watched Peter and the boat disappear into the mist. Matthew’s words echoed in my mind — “scale works differently up here.” I thought I understood it, but when everything went quiet, I realized I didn’t. Not even close.

Backpacking in Auyuittuq National Park messes with your instincts. There’s nothing familiar to measure distance against. No logging roads, no cut blocks, and no ski runs in the distance. Just the wide-open Arctic landscape of Baffin Island stretching out in every direction.

“Scale works differently up here.”

When Trevor and I pointed to a bend in the valley, we said, “Yeah, the emergency shelter is probably just around that corner.” We believed it. Three hours later, we finally reached it. That became our running joke for the rest of the Akshayuk Pass trek — “It’s just over there!” Sure it is...

That rainbow is "just over there"...

A faint little trail led us along the tidal flats toward the Weasel River. We spotted what looked like dog tracks in the sand, thinking maybe an Inuit family had been out earlier. Then, a few kilometers later, the mystery solved itself: an Arctic fox moving along the slope beneath Overlord, hunting lemmings. Seeing Arctic wildlife that early in the trip felt like the North giving us a quiet nod.

Day Two: A New Perspective

Day two showed up ready to impress. The breeze stayed, but the skies cleared completely, revealing Mount Odin, Tirokwa Peak, and Thor Peak in full view — a lineup of giants. But honestly, the biggest moment wasn’t the scenery. It was crossing the Arctic Circle on foot.

It’s tough to describe that feeling. It doesn’t hit all at once. It sneaks up on you. One minute you’re walking, and the next, you realize you’ve stepped across a line that most people only ever see on a map. Thor in front of us, Schwarzenbach Falls roaring behind us, and a good friend beside me — that moment is burned in.

A great moment, spent with a great friend.

The Journey Continues

Again, I could hear Trevor, in disbelief, say, "I can't believe we are really here!"

We’d heard from a small group we crossed paths with (rare for Auyuittuq) that the Thor emergency shelter can be brutally windy, so we kept an eye out for a better spot.

The next couple of days had us retracing our steps back through Akshayuk Pass toward Pangnirtung Fjord. We camped high above Crater Lake on a grassy bench — one of the few places that actually blocks the wind. The following night, we spent our final night at Ulu. Over veggie butter chicken, naan, and hot tea, we replayed everything we’d just experienced.

Did we really just backpack across Baffin Island?

In one of the most remote places in Canada?

As the sun was rising, Trevor made hot coffee, packed up, and we headed down-valley toward Overlord to meet Peter again.

The mountains were behind us, but the trip wasn’t over. Pangnirtung — or Pang, as everyone calls it — welcomed us with a kind of quiet that makes you slow down. The trail had shown us the land.

Now it was time to meet the people, learn the stories, and step into the heart of this place.

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Part 3: Pangnirtung – Voices of the Arctic

In Part 3: Pangnirtung – Voices of the Arctic, we leave the mountains behind and spend time with the people who call this place home. We’ll explore the culture, history, and traditions woven into the fjord and the land around it.

Ready to write your own Arctic story? Learn more about our guided Baffin expedition here and join the waitlist to secure your spot on the next journey north.

Embracing the Arctic Experience

The Arctic is more than just a destination; it’s an experience that transforms you. Each step on the rugged terrain connects you deeper with nature. The crisp air fills your lungs, invigorating your spirit. You learn to appreciate the little things, like the sound of the wind or the sight of a distant mountain peak.

The Call of Adventure

Adventure calls to us all. It’s that whisper in your ear, urging you to step outside your comfort zone. The Arctic Circle is not just a line on a map; it’s a gateway to a world of wonder. Each moment spent there is a reminder of how small we are in the grand scheme of things.

Nature’s Classroom

In the Arctic, nature is the ultimate teacher. It shows you resilience, beauty, and the power of the elements. You’ll find yourself captivated by the landscapes and the wildlife. Each encounter is a lesson in respect and appreciation for the wild.

Finding Connection

As you trek through this breathtaking wilderness, you’ll forge connections with fellow adventurers. Shared experiences create bonds that last a lifetime. You’ll laugh, struggle, and celebrate together, making memories that you’ll cherish forever.

A Journey Worth Taking

So, are you ready to embark on your own Arctic adventure? The call of the wild is waiting for you. Join us, and let’s create unforgettable memories together in the heart of the Arctic.

With every step, you’ll discover not just the beauty of the landscape but also the beauty within yourself. Let’s make this journey one for the books!