Backpacking Baffin Island – Part 1: How a Chance Encounter Sparked an Arctic Expedition
- chris78395
- Nov 7
- 3 min read
"Landing in Pangnirtung: The Journey Begins"
It all started with an impromptu conversation a few years ago at the hot pool. Shannen and I were trying to find the hottest spot in the water, which happened to put us near a group of older folks who were quite chatty. After some pleasant small talk and the usual “What do you do?” questions, one of the gentlemen learned that I was a hiking guide.
He smiled and mentioned that he and his buddies were heading to Baffin Island to backpack through a national park.Perplexed, I thought, “Hiking in Baffin? Wow.” After a little research, it seemed like quite the adventure—but at the time, I didn’t think it fit the Playwest model.
"Mountains? There shouldn’t be mountains around here."
Fast-forward to January 2025. While flying home from a vacation in France, about five hours into the flight, Shannen looked out the window and said, “Mountains.”I looked at her, confused. Mountains? There shouldn’t be mountains around here. I checked the in-flight map, and sure enough, it showed we were flying over Baffin Island. I peered out the window and, to my amazement, there they were—mountains and endless snowfields. After carefully inspecting my photo later, I realized we were flying directly over the pass.
That’s when the ember turned to a flame.
Within a few days—and after a bit more research—I messaged my good buddy Trevor:
Me: “Baffin?”
Trevor: "Yes"
Like the adventurer he is, his response was immediate: “Yes.”
After a few weeks of humming and hawing and an opening in my schedule, I finally had the flights punched into my computer. I sent Trevor one last message:
Me: “Are you sure? I have the flights lined up...I’m ready to pull the trigger.” (half thinking i'd call his bluff...Trev wasn't bluffing)
Trev: Again, “Yes. Do it!”
The funny thing about this adventure is that most people plan for at least a year, sometimes two or three. Trevor and I? We rolled the dice and planned it in six weeks.
August 14th and two days of flights later, we found ourselves standing in the Pangnirtung airport at 9:15 a.m.—backpacks on, ready to roll. We made our way straight to the Parks Canada office for our orientation.
Our ferry to the trailhead was scheduled for later that afternoon to coincide with the tides. I called the operator, Peter Kilabuk, to let him know we had arrived and to confirm our departure. In his calm, methodical voice, he said, “We can get you out around eleven, if that works.”
Trevor and I burst out laughing. The hustle was on. We had to get through orientation, pick up white gas and a few provisions from the grocery store, and make it back to the dock—fast.
“Get on the boat.”
Our Parks Canada representative, Matthew, was amazing—calm, funny, and full of knowledge. He walked us through the orientation, the route plan, and the sheer scale of what we were about to take on.
Permits done, bags packed, and groceries in hand, we hustled down to the dock.
When we arrived, Peter gave us a quick nod and said, “Get on the boat.” He untied the ropes as we threw our bags aboard and pushed off. Usually when you’re leaving a harbour, there’s a no-wake zone and a slow roll out—but not today. We were pinned to win.
As we ripped out of the harbour, Trevor looked at me and laughed. “I guess we’re in a hurry!”
Trevor: "I really can't believe I'm here right now..."
An hour-long ride up the sound toward the Overlord West drop-off had us grinning ear to ear. We were buzzing—thrilled to finally be here—and with clear skies and calm water, we were already five or six hours ahead of schedule.
As we powered up the fjord toward Auyuittuq, it hit me — this was it. The wild edge of Canada. No roads, no crowds, just us and the North.
Trevor: "I really can't believe I'm here right now..."
Me: "It's so awesome!"
In Part 2: Into Auyuittuq – Walking Through the Heart of Baffin Island, I’ll share what it’s really like to trek through glacier-carved valleys and stand beneath some of the tallest granite walls in the country.
Ready to write your own Arctic story? Learn more about our guided Baffin expedition here and join the waitlist to secure your spot on the next journey north.